Before moving to a bigger piece of content, namely the roadtrips in the Southern Island and in the Coromandel Peninsula, I thought I would squeeze in-between a post about the life in the big New Zealand cities.
Intro
I decided to condense my experiences in Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Oamaru and Dunedin, as I didn’t gather enough material to write dedicated posts on their own.
Because frankly, my main objective when I came to NZ was to indulge as much nature as possible, and not to spend my days “city hopping”.
Yet I’ve always liked to spend some time in big(ger) cities too. To catch a bit of the vibes of a country, wondering around, going to the shopping districts to see what makes the people tick, what they are up to, etc.
Maybe a bit of my entrepreneurial bias now, trying to scout new business ideas, which I could replicate back in the motherland. But furthermore because it is part of the cultural experience I guess. Despite the fact that, in a globalized world, our respective lifestyles tend to look alike, even if there are still some local specifics.
So for this post, I will proceed by city, moving from North to the South.
I’ll give you some tips and tricks on where to stay, eat or shop. And a little shout out to Oamaru, which positively surprised me. A place that is probably outside of the radar of most people traveling to NZ but that is definitely worth visiting for 1 night at least.
Auckland
I didn’t stay for long period of time in Auckland. I would usually come to spend the day. My cousin, an architect, had one of his project located in Manurewa, namely the construction of a Maori School in the Suburbs of Auckland. Required to visit the construction site at least once a week, I would travel with him and then take the Sth-Train to Briomart, Auckland terminal station.
From there, I would wonder around for the day. So I cannot really recommend tons of places in Auckland, but still give you some tips and tricks.
What to do in Auckland
I recommend you to visit the maritime museum. Despite not being the biggest I’ve ever seen, it will give you precious insights about the relationship Maoris and Kiwis have with the sea. It also explains the history of the country, from the indigenous inhabitants to the first settlements of the colonists. The place is also kid friendly.
Otherwise, a walk downtown, in the CBD area will allow you to see the modern architecture, and some of the shops, with the luxurious brands located on Queen Street. If you’re craving for a breakfast/coffee, I liked Amano, where they serve savory and sweets, with a take-away and a dine-in section.
I didn’t visit it but it looked quite nice from the outside, the Auckland Art Gallery, which boasts also a very nice terrasse with a restaurant. The Albert Park, located straight behind it ils also very nice. You’ll find tons of benches to indulge a well deserved break in the sun or in the shade.
For lunch, I went twice to Bao&Noodle, to enjoy their dim sum. They have a lunch menu, reasonable prices and they prepare the food fast.
For shopping, if you’re looking for a trendy place, I can recommend you Loaded, not too far away from Bao&Noodle. They boast a large inventory of streetwear and sneakers, some of them being limited editions.
Otherwise, on Queen Street, you’ll find most of the international brands. I was pleasantly surprised to see that Nike is priced way cheaper than in Switzerland (not surprising) but also than even the US. So if you need a pair of running shoes, this might be a good opportunity.
Otherwise, in the area around Newmarket, you’ll find other international brands. And in the Westfield Mall, you’ll have the typical American shopping experience, with a food court, a movie theater, etc.
Exploring K-Road
However, I particularly like the vibe around St.Kevin’s arcades, with a lot of smaller shops (designers, vinyls, etc.), and some great places to eat out. On the other hand of Karangahape Rd, I loved Madam George, a Peruvian restaurant run by Pablo Arrasco Paz. It was truly a gem, yet they just announced the closure of their operation, because of the economic downturn. What a loss…
So you’ll have to look for options directly in the arcades. There were severals and depending on what you’re craving, you might find your luck there.
Last but not least, if you want to enjoy a great lookout on the city, you’ll have to go to Mount St-John. However, it is located far away from the CBD area, and you’ll have to take a cab or have a car
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As usual, click the picture to enlarge…
Wellington
I spent a little more time in Wellington, on my way back to Raglan after my road trip on the Southern Island. It was not necessarily planned, but I had heard some good things about this city and wanted to see what the fuss was about.
If you’re a fan of Lord of the Rings or the Hobbit, etc. you probably know that Peter Jackson, the director and producer is from Wellington. And the city is home to many companies active in this industry, among others the WingNut Film Production.
And a such, the city attracts a lot of cinema professionals. So this give a special vibe to the city, and many touristic sites have hatched. As an example, you can visit the Weta Workshop, to have first hand look behind the scene of the productions (costumes, VFX, etc.).
I personally didn’t do it. First of all I’m not the biggest fan of LOFTR (sorry for the blasphemy) and I didn’t feel like spending 90min on a tour. On top, I had the chance to visit Universal Studio back in 2008 when I was living in California. It was nice but I can also scent a tourist trap ;-). No tbh, the tour was well appraised on the different reviews I’ve read but well, just my very own opinion/priorities.
Yet, I did spend quite some time to walk around in the area and it was nice, just to get the vibe. And if you do the same, you might walk by the Roxy Cinema, an Art Deco institution of the city. They have a great program, and a cafe/restaurant on site as well. Definitely worth a visit
Anything else to recommend?
If you’re looking for a place to stay, look up on the main booking platform, to see what special deals you can get. Personally, I booked last minute, the day before. But I find a very nice hotel, well located, within walking distance from the CBD area, but also Cuba Street, etc. The hotel is the Trypp Wellington. Room was not huge, but I was by myself so big enough. And the breakfast was included. Yet, it was some sort of a buffet with very limited choice. So if you’re looking for something else, I can only recommend the Shelly Bay Baker, on Leeds Street. Try their cookies, one of their specialities.
For food and drinks
Head to Cuba Street where you’ll find tons of options. Personally, I had a craving for Asian food. So I picked by chance to Saigon Van. I went for the Summer rolls and the Vietnamese soup, in a very nice set-up. You can eat also outside, but bear in mind that Wellington is one of the rainiest and windiest city in NZ. So at night, inside my be a safer option.
For lunch, I went to Willis Lane, some sort of un underground facility in the CBD area with a food court with all sorts of food (sushi, dumplings, burgers, ramen, etc.) but also entertainment options (bowling a.o.). If you go during lunch time, you’ll mingle with the local mainly office workers.
For drinks, for an afterwork vibe, try the Fortune Favor Beers, a local micro-brewery, located in an old industrial building with a nice roof top terrasse. Right next to it, they have a food truck that serves burgers. In case you’re hungry.
For a cosy vibe, I also tried Crumpet, a cocktail bar, close by, that boasts a decent selection of drinks, wines but also finger food (cheese plates a.o.).
And if you’re looking for things to do, the sea front is nice to walk. Located also on the sea front, TePapa, New Zealand national museum offers permanent and temporary exhibition. I personally didn’t visit it, but the building is quite impressive. You can enter it to have a look, without having to pay.
On my side, I decided to take the cable car to have a walk in the botanic garden. You can take the round-trip ticket, which is a bit cheaper. However, once at the top, it will not take you long to walk down, if you feel like it.
It was very nice and peaceful. Depending on the loop you do, you can walk up to 90min or so, and there are several points of interest (rose garden, the treehouse, the Carter observatory, etc.
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Christchurch
Moving on to the Southern Island, I spent only one night in Christchurch. I ended my roadtrip there and had to drop my car before taking a plane the following day.
I had heard some mix feelings about Christchurch. The Lonely Planet was quite fond of the city. My cousin a bit less.
Factually, the city endured major damages during the earthquake of 2011. The aftermath were super impressive, not in a positive way. Some buildings had to be demolished because of the impact on their structures and the risk of collapse. Consequently, and trying to see the glass half full, if there is any reason to, the local architects could start again from a white canvas and rebuild new buildings, with bolder designs if you may.
However, nearly 15 years later, some buildings have yet to be rebuilt. You can witness scaffolding even in the city center, in the commercial district.
Additionally, you can spot a lot of street art and frescos throughout the city.
So needless to say that I had a good time in Christchurch. I could have stayed maybe one or two days longer. However it didn’t feel like I could stay there for too too long.
If I can give you some tips and tricks.
For the accommodation, I booked last last minute. It was part motel part hostel. And I booked a bed in a dorm. Was ok but super noisy.
And even though sometimes if feels good to spend a night in a hostel. It makes it easier to meet up with people, and who knows, go for a drink or eat out. This can feel life-saving if you’ve been on the road on your own for long and crave for social interactions. But when you’re nearly 40, it can also feel super odd, especially if sleep quality is important to you. In my case, I wasn’t craving for social contacts AND yes I tend to grant my sleep quality some importance.
So needless to say that I will not recommend you this place.
For food, I tried Mashawe Mediterranean BBQ. Was tasty and relatively cheap. For drinks, if you’re looking for something special, try the Church Pub, which is literally a Pub in an old Church. With sometime live music. Was nice. Otherwise, if you’re looking for something more intimate, The Last Word could be a good pick.
Last but not least, and especially for lunch, the Riverside Market might be what you’re looking for. It is an inside food market with also restaurants, coffee shops, etc. A lot of variety in a very nice set up, within walking distance from the CBD area.
Photo gallery
Oamaru
Second to the last big cities I’ve visited was Oamaru, on the Eastern Coast of the Southern Island. And damn it was a pleasant surprise. You know, sometime in life you have 0 expectation, for once. And you end up in a situation or place that exceeds all the expectations you could have had. Maybe a life lesson to be made…
Anyway, Oamaru was a great surprise in a sense that if feels like the definition of anachronism. And when you walk there, you feel like living the movie “Back to the Future” but for real.
We start in a provincial town, which seems stuck in the 70s and 80s. Then, as you turn a corner, you feel as if you’re back in the middle of Prohibition.
Then the ride continues. Suddenly, you pass a steampunk HQ, an anachronism between Victorian England and a dystopian future.
And even further on, we find ourselves in a Victorian neighborhood, where we might well bump into the Shelby brothers from Peaky Blinders at any moment.
In short, it’s a complete change of scenery and well worth the detour. I spent just one night there, on the way to Dunedin, but have no regrets whatsoever about changing my schedule just a little to discover this gem.
My tips and tricks
For accommodation. I booked a motel that I found on a booking platform. It was decent, and yes the decoration was from the 80s :-)! The good thing about motel in New Zealand is that you most probably will have a kitchenette with at least a fridge, a coffee pot, etc. So perfect if like myself, you like to prepare some healthy breakfast.
So the motel was the Bellavista Oamaru. More than a name, a promise 😀
For food & drinks. For my dinner, I ate at the Criterion Hotel & Pub, located in the Victorian Precinct. The Last Post Pub & Restaurant, located in the ground floor, offers warm and tasty food.
For coffee, breakfast or lunch, I can recommend the Harbour Street Collective Coffee. A nice place that also boast a huge play ground for children at the back. They also have a section where you can buy grocery/local products, accessoire, etc.
On my way back to Christchurch, after my stay in Dunedin, I did a stopover in Oamaru for lunch. And this time, I went to Tees Street Cafe and had a very tasty lunch. They have sweet and savory food. Definitely worth a try.
As it comes to the things to do, I can recommend you
- Steampunk HQ: a bit difficult to describe. But in short, this place is a steampunk-themed museum with imaginative exhibits crafted from old machinery. You’ll find touchable art, themed rooms, etc. Very creative, but maybe a bit impressive if you plan on going with young children. But otherwise definitely worth a visit.
- Victorian Precinct: it says in the tittle. You’ll find art galleries, shops, etc. Quite nice too. And really next door from the Steampunk HQ
- Oamaru Blue Pinguin Colony: this is another activity that was recommended in the Lonely Planet. I personally didn’t do it but it goes like this. Every evening, between 5 and 9pm, depending on the season, the pingouins are coming back from the sea. And you can have a guided tour and see them coming back inside the center. If you’re into this, it will cost you around 23 NZD (more info here). If you don’t want to be in a relatively big group, you can also spot wildlife on the Sumpter Wharf, a couple of meters from there.
- Scotts Brewing Co.: if you’re more into liquid malted beverages, you can head to the Scotts Brewing Co, critically acclaimed in the entire country. I don’t know if they organize guided tour of the brewery, but they definitely have a pub section, with a big terrasse. They also serve finger foods (pizza, burgers, etc.)
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Dunedin
Last stop for this post. The city in the furthest South of the Southern Island. Frankly, I still don’t know why I drove all the way to Dunedin. Maybe because of the weather. They forecast rain for the following day and I thought it would make kind of sense to be in a city and have indoor options.
With a little hindsight, I’m not sure I’d go back if I only had 7-10 days to spend on the South Island.
Generally speaking, I have no regrets and everything has to happen for a reason. And that was the case here.
But there aren’t too many points of interest in the city. And its main attraction lies in the fact that it’s the oldest university in the country and, with over 20,000 students, student life dominates a large part of the city.
However, when I was there, it was raining, so everyone was indoors.
What’s more, a large part of the city center was under construction, which didn’t make getting around any easier and somewhat disfigured the whole area, especially the main shopping district.
So I arrived in the early afternoon and left the next day in the late evening. During that time, I mainly walked first in the center to see the train station, a landmark of the city, and then all the way to the main University Campus.
After that, I came back to my aparthotel, had a light bite and then went to the theater to watch Dune 2. In Dune(din) you can’t make this stuff up 😉
But the experience at the cinema, the Rialto, was pretty fantastic. First and foremost because of the film, but also and above all because of this cinema, which smelled of the 90s or maybe even earlier. Just walking into the place felt like stepping back in time. In short, a wonderful experience.
The next day, after a quick stop at a local coffee roaster, I set up the navy system towards the north and headed to Christchurch.
That’s about it. I hope you liked this post. If you need more tips and tricks, do not hesitate to reach out.
One love.
Over and out and stay tuned for the next post, about the roadtrip in the Southern Island.
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